A friend of mine has asked for help in putting together an outfit for a 1940s party. I thought this was a good chance to put together a how-to guide for those interested in replicating the blitz style themselves. We’ll start from the top, and work our way down.
Hair
There are loads of tutorials out on the Internet showing how to curl your hair in a 1940s style, one of the most popular styles of the time being known as Victory Rolls. Here are some of the best tutorials:
An easy way to give your hair a more 40s look is to add a flower ornament tucked into a simple French roll. Another option is to bundle your hair into a crocheted snood (there are always plenty available on eBay), or tie it up in a printed scarf like a factory girl.
For those who don’t have long hair to play with, an instant 1940s style trick is to don a hat. Hats with netting or small feather adornments were popular, as were more mannish styles such as trilbies and homburgs . Whichever style you choose, it should be worn at an angle, slightly to the side and tipped forward. You would be amazed how something as simple as moving a hat a few degrees to one side will give you a more 40s look.
London girls, if you want to cheat then visit Nina’s Hair Parlour, who specialise in retro hair and make-up.
Face
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| Hedy Lamarr |
The single most important aspect of 1940s style is giving yourself the reddest of red lips. Most other make-up was fairly simple and subdued; eyes only need a swipe of mascara and neutral nude or brown eyeshadow (if any). Keep blush to a bare minimum. Brows should follow your natural curve, but be fairly defined.
A good tutorial for giving yourself 1940s style lips is available on Diary of a Vintage Girl
Body
The 1940s shape was structured in appearance, reflecting the military background to the era. Shoulders were sharp and strong, the waist was smartly belted at the natural waistline, and skirts hovered sensibly around the knee. Simplicity is key: elaborate trims such as lace, ruffles or embroidery all but disappeared, while buttons began to be used in abundance (being one of the few haberdashery items to escape rationing). Matching fabric covered buttons were particularly popular.
Jackets
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| Vintage fur stole from PennyDreadfulVintage |
Look for something tailored, with padded shoulders. A peplum flare is also good. Wear a brooch at the shoulder for a feminine touch. For evening, wear a fur coat or stole if you can get one.
Dresses
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| 1940s matching dress and jacket in cutwork crepe from Penny Dreadful Vintage |
Matching dress and jacket sets were popular. Day dresses could have a sweetheart, round, square, v or shirt style neckline, but they all have sleeves (of any length) and are usually worn with a belt. Colours are often muted, and prints are likely to be a small floral or similar (away from the frivolous designs of the 30s and atomic concoctions of the 50s). One of the most commonly used fibres was rayon in a crepe type of fabric. For daytime, dresses came to about knee level, but in the evening the length dropped almost to the floor. Evening dresses might be in a draped satin, chiffon or taffeta, and unlike day dresses can be worn sleeveless.
Skirts
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| 1940s skirt and blouses. Image from Glamour Daze |
Usually in a straight pencil style or a slight a-line flare. Again, due to rationing excess material could not be used on full skirts, though in the late 40s (and the introduction of Dior’s New Look in 1947) full skirts began to come into fashion. Hip pockets on either side of the waist were often used for both skirts and dresses, and as with dresses skirts were usually worn with a belt. Common fabrics would be wool tweed or twill.
Blouses
Again, keep it simple. A plain crisp blouse in cotton or rayon, with capped or full length sleeves. Keep it tucked into your skirt or slacks and define your waist with a belt. A simple figure hugging jumper is fine too – again, tuck it in and wear with a belt.
Belts
Belts were often in the same fabric as the dress, or leather for skirts and trousers. The most important thing is not to wear anything too wide, as the waist cincher is more of a 50s style. Keep the belt around your natural waistline, and make sure it is fairly thin.
Stockings
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| Wolsey 1940s seamed stocking advertisement, from Glamour Daze |
At this time women were still wearing seamed stockings. These are easily available now and a very easy way to get the 1940s look. Stockings were often very difficult to get hold of during the war, so a nifty trick girls often used was to draw a faux seam up the back of their leg with eyeliner. You could always take this approach – get a friend to help draw the line and make sure not to wobble!
Seamed tights or stockings are available from John Lewis, Debenhams, or if you want to go for something more authentic get them via What Katie Did.
**Aussie and US girls – I checked Myers, David Jones, Macys and Nordstrom but no luck on the seamed stockings. If anyone knows of a store which does them let me know and I’ll include the link. If not, What Katie Did does international shipping.
Trousers
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| 1940s girls jumping rope in trousers, from Deluxeville |
Callooh! Callay! Women were able to wear trousers without a second glance in the 40s, so if you don’t like skirts look out for something with a high waist and wide leg. You can see the type of style I mean over here on Heyday Clothing (a great source for retro style clothing).
Shoes
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| Advertisement for Lotus Shoes, from Vintage Chic |
Heels were a mid to low heel in general, certainly not as high as we wear them nowadays. And try to keep them chunky – stilettos did not come in until the 50s. Cork and wood wedges were also popular, as were t-bars, saddle shoes, mary janes, buckles, buttons, and laced up styles. The toes should be rounded or possibly squared off, but never pointy.
Bags
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| 1940s advertisement for Mary Lamb bags, from Glamour Daze |
A fairly simply frame bag in leather or mock croc should do the trick. People also sometimes crocheted their own clutch or handle bags but these are less easy to get old of, unless you want to get crafty and make your own.
Gloves
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| 1949 ladies wearing day dresses and gloves, from Retro Ways |
Another quick trick. Add a pair of short gloves to a simple day dress and you look instantly more 1940s in style. All the better if you can match the gloves to your bag, shoes or hat.
Working Girls
Not that kind of working girl you filthy creatures! During the Second World War, by necessity rather than choice, women experienced a professional emancipation. With men away fighting, previously non-working women stepped into the breach to work in factories, on farms, as engineers and mechanics and ambulance drivers and wardens. Pretty skirts and dresses were entirely useless in these circumstances, and women wore overalls or plain shorts and trousers with a pair of sturdy boots. The one concession to femininity would be hair tied up in a head scarf and a slick of the ever present red lippie (see Rosie the Riveter).
This look is fairly easy to put together. For an army girl, add a khaki shirt and skirt together with leather belt and brogues. A land girl, knee length shorts, shirt with rolled up sleeves, boots and headscarf (you could even carry a hoe). A factory girl, grab a pair of overalls and head scarf and you are done (wear the seamed stockings underneath if you want to be a little saucy).
Some good blogs to read for tips on 1940s style:
If anyone wants to add any tips or sources, please let me know in the comments. I’ve tried to make this comprehensive without being overwhelming, but I know there are lots of girls out there who live and breathe this stuff – so if I have missed something vital let me know!
1960s polka dot mod dress by Berketex
1970s green and red tartan knit jumper dress
1960s black and white check blanket dress
1970s floral print hippy smock dress by Emanuelle
>This was very informative and I love all the images you posted. I didn't know about stilletos only coming in during the fiftees. Great guide on recreating the look! The forties is a gaping hole in my vintage wardrobe but I love the look.
>Really excellent guide – very comprehensive! I love the links to the different hair tutorials, thanks for posting these!
>EXCELLENT post, Dreadful. I hope you submit this to IFB's links ala mode. You make your information fun, entertaining and full of facts. The fact you are always good in your source citations, and give links galore to other bloggers makes extra points in my book. AND you looking beautiful in your '40's garbs just puts that icing on that delicious 1940's cakes.
>This is FABULOUS, I agree with @the Citizen Rosebud, you should submit this post to ifb, LOVE it!!! this is Brilliant & Phenomenal :)
Kisses
Jemina
XOXO
PS: I'm now your follower :)
>Brilliant post! My darling late Grandmother had the most dreadful time during the war and it's a look I associate with the most terrible heartbreak, hard times and lack of glamour. Those images certainly give what I grew up knowing a whole slant on the decade.
Did you ever see the style challenge Alex set me? Here's my 1940's look, it ain't pretty: http://vintagevixon.blogspot.com/2010/08/century-of-style-challenge-1940-1950.html
xxx
>You do the bestest tutorials ever!
xoxo ~ Courtney
http://sartorialsidelines.blogspot.com
>Oh I've never put anything in to IFB, I'll give it a go thanks to you girls :)
Lena – I'll have to do a Skins guide next, hahaha!
Vix – Bwahaha! Not that you look bad with the outfit, but that you look so grumpy. You obviously really hated the look, but you know the hair was really rather marvellous. Perhaps if the suit hadn't been quite so sober it would have been more fun, a colourful tea dress and wedges would have been mroe your style.
Regarding the whole period – sometimes when I read things about it I can hardly believe that people were living through such experiences, right here, in London. And yet despite the terrible things that were going on, the poverty and the death and loss and lack of food and heating and families torn apart and your whole world being turned upside down… women still wanted to look nice. They hemmed their dresses up and adjusted men's jackets to suit their figures, added their own trims to hats, drew on stockings, painted their face by any means possible. I wonder whether it is in fact one of the pillars of humanity, the desire to look good against all odds.
It is a period of such heights and depths of emotion, it is no wonder that people are fascinated by it. I have just finished reading Night Watch, which is really worth a go to imagine what living in the city was like during that time.
Enormous response over :)
>Fantastic post, there is so much information here. I also had no idea about stilletos only coming in in the 50s. I want to wear pretty gloves with everything but they must have had a nightmare keeping them clean
>This is a great post, and really nicely done. I love the pics, the one of the four girls walking down the street particularly. They look so happy. You're right – their attention to their appearance in a time of such uncertainty is very touching. Thanks for doing this!
>Brilliant post, it's so informative and accompanied by some great photos. Love it! x
>What a wonderful post. I shall treasure it and take down quite a few notes. I adore the 40s look, and you have given me just about every answer.
Thanks you angellllllllllll!!!
>So sorry Stef, you should be on the blog list too. Knew I'd forget someone, adding you right now x
>Absolutely incredible post! So detailed, thorough and bang-on…
I love 1940's style and you sum it up perfectly.
x
>Just fabulous !!!! I love the 40s look and any pointers are always useful – I love learning new stuff xxxx
>Yes. I went straight to the gutter with the "working girls" title. What can I say? I am a filthy creature! Fab post. I was reading it thinking "I am getting it right – I do all those things!" to find at the bottom that you had listed me for people to reference! What a darlin you truely are :)
*skuttles off to add some outfit posts to her blog*
>I really want to meet some women with the 40's look!
>Oh my gosh, I love this post. And your reply to Vix's comment is fascinating too. I'd love to read a bit more about the psychology of fashion – it's amazing how much effort people went to to make themselves look good during such difficult times. I can't imagine queueing hours for a lipstick either!
I adore 40's fashion but I think you've got to be quite bold to wear it. I feel incredibly self conscious when I try out red lippy and Victory Rolls and I've not got the bravery to do it more often.
>Lovely photos! thank you for the links, they are really useful x
>Great article! I especially loved the section on working girls, and am thinking of ways to channel a bit of that look into my current wardrobe!
>great guide!
http://pinupdolls01.blogspot.com/
>What a fabulous post! I really enjoyed that. I've had my hair done like that before and I loved it but it never stays in for long enough. I shall give the tutorials a go, thank you xx
>What an insightful post, wow I am going to have to come back and read it properly later when I am not suppost to be working ha ha. I just wanted to say how touched I was by what you wrote on my blog, it is so annoying when you work so hard to save up for something and people knock you for it isnt it! I would love to hear your shoe story xx
>OK I couldnt resist and had to read it all now ha ha! I would love to go to one of the events and get dressed up and do all the dancing. My mum told me that my Grandma during the war, when they couldn't get stockings, they would use tea to stain their legs a tan colour and then use the eye liner for the line.
>Oh this is such a great post! I feel really inspired now :)
Sally x
>That's a really good guide!
And I see me! *blushes*
>Bon jour darling, excellent post! I couldn't help but notice what you said about the Antipodes. We here at the Gazette-ette only purchase our seamed stockings (for garter belt of course) from David Jones department store. They're by Leona Edmiston and a really rather good vintage style to have on hand in black and nude. For the uncouth among us Voodoo make a full tight with seams, only in black though.
Toodle pip!
>Sockdreams.com has tons of socks,stockings and tights in almost every color imaginable.Including many unusual ones.
>I love this post, I live and breathe all things vintage, most particularly 40's,, and I just love reading different people's takes on recreating the style. I think the whole strength of the people in that era is something to be celebrated! Make do and mend indeed!
Pip pip xx
http://rosiealia.blogspot.com/
>The 1940s are my favorite, thank you for this post! I'm planning a '40s party in may, also, and I'm going to have my guests read this to help them get the look. :)